Flatter and less pleasant than acne, blackheads are a common facial scourge that seems to plague even the most well-cared-for complexion (if you might wake up at night close to someone’s face) before looking flawless). Some studies have shown that blackheads, a form of acne, can affect almost everyone for the rest of their lives. Heck, even the celebrities with all the skincare privileges in the world get them.

So, if your face is covered in little black spots, you’re good to go. But if you don’t want to be part of the club, read on for expert advice on eliminating the stubborn spots in your life.

What are blackheads?
“Blackheads occur when the hair follicles on an infant’s face, neck, chest and back are typically filled with waxy skin oils called sebum, dead cells and Propionibacterium acnes,” says board-certified cosmetic dermatologist and Mohs says surgeon Dendy Engelman, M.D. “When a hair follicle is blocked, it forms a keratin plug called a pimple,” says Tracy Evans, board-certified dermatologist and director of dermatology at Pacific Skin and Cosmetic Dermatology in San Francisco. (Fun fact: One lump is called a pimple, while multiple lumps are called acne.)

Compared to cysts, blackheads are very low on the acne spectrum in terms of severity (yes, there is one), but they are still a form of acne, says board-certified dermatologist Naana Boakye, and should be treated as such (more on that later). Also, whitehead acne is considered closed acne because it’s covered with skin, while blackhead acne is what’s called open acne. In fact, exposure to air causes the debris trapped inside to oxidize and turn black.

What do blackheads look like?
Unlike fine filaments of sebum that feel flat and are a normal, harmless part of the skin (not a clogged pore), blackheads may be slightly elevated. Nor are blackheads: enlarged pores. “It’s just sebum in the skin,” says Dr. Boakye, adding that pore size is genetic.

The good news about blackheads is that “they don’t really stretch your pores,” says Dr. Evans. “The skin is very elastic.” In other words, if you have large pores, blame your DNA, not the blackheads.

How to treat blackheads
Dr. Boakye explains that there are two phases to removing blackheads: treatment and maintenance. “The treatment is slightly more complicated,” she says. The treatment part is usually most successful when performed chemically, using a prescription retinoid such as Retin-A, or an over-the-counter option like Differin ($36), which loosens the trapped sticky substance so it can pass through the medication. Attempting to exfoliate with a heavy scrub may irritate and worsen the problem. (Note: You may need to gradually adjust to your treatment products.)

“I like retinoids because they not only help with acne, but also fine lines and hyperpigmentation,” says Dr. Boakye. “But vitamin A analogs are a journey. Sometimes it takes six months to see results, but stick with it,” she says.

Before treatment, be sure to cleanse the skin thoroughly (especially before bedtime to remove all makeup and buildup from the day). Dr. Boakye recommends using a lotion containing salicylic acid to unclog pores.

“Acne is chronic,” says Dr. Boakye. “So after you’ve successfully treated your blackheads, you’ll want to keep up what you’ve accomplished.”

For the maintenance portion of the program, Dr. Boakye recommends focusing on barrier protection to enhance the overall health of the skin. This can be accomplished by using a gentle cleanser daily, followed by an oil-free moisturizer such as CeraVe Daily Moisturizing Lotion ($13). Once a month, Dr. Engelman likes to introduce an exfoliating peel in the photo, such as Glo Skin Beauty Beta-Clarity AHA Clarifying Peel ($85), to exfoliate pores and reduce their visibility.

Whether you’re treating or maintaining, always always always use an oil-free sunscreen during the day, such as MD Solar Sciences Mineral Moisture Defense SPF 50 ($39).

Should you extract blackheads?
While it’s not recommended to go to town on blackheads with dirty fingers – “It can lead to infection or new breakouts,” says Dr. Engleman – there are ways to safely extract blackheads at home. (TLDR; skip the extraction tool and use a cotton ball to help you squeeze out the sticky substance, making sure to keep the area clean before and after.) An esthetician or dermatologist can also do this so you don’t harm your skin and put you at risk for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or erythema (redness).